Arctic Clothing and Adornment (Photo Diary)

The Artic Culture Area includes the Aleutian Islands, most of the Alaska Coast, the Canadian Artic, and parts of Greenland. It is an area which can be described as a “cold” desert. Geographer W. Gillies Ross, in his chapter in North American Exploration. Volume 3: A Continent Comprehended, writes:

“The North American Arctic is usually considered to be the region beyond the northernmost limit of tree growth.”

 photo P1090346_zpsj0bdpyzw.jpg The shaded area on the map shown above shows the Arctic culture area.

The area has long, cold winters and short summers. During the summer, the tundra becomes boggy and difficult to cross. W. Gillies Ross describes the region this way:

“In general, the Arctic is characterized by mean monthly temperatures under 50ᵒ F (10ᵒ C); long, severe winters; short, cool summers; persistent ice cover on fresh- and saltwater bodies; prolonged winter darkness and summer daylight; ground underlain by continuous permafrost; and a comparatively small number of plant and animal species.”

The native people of the Arctic are usually divided into the Aleut and the Eskimo. The Eskimo refer to themselves as Inuit and the Aleut call them themselves Unangan. All of the languages of this area are classified as Eskimoan.

The Maryhill Museum of Art near Goldendale, Washington, has a collection of Arctic clothing and adornments on display.

Clothing

Arctic clothing is designed for cold-climate use. One of the traditional pieces of Inuit women’s clothing is the amuatik: a jacket that has a pouch in the back in which a baby is carried until the baby is about two years old. In an article in American Indian Art, Karen Kramer writes:

“An icon for Inuit women, this ingenious garment allows the child to be swung to the front for breastfeeding.”

The Inuit were unconcerned with nudity. In article in Indian Country Today, Rachel Qitsaulik writes:

“Unlike many other cultures, Inuit did not regard the naked form—whether male or female—as a focus for either lust or scandal. A human being without clothes was only that: an unclothed person.”

 photo P1090350_zpskbm3jdoy.jpg Shown above is a wolf-fur coat made in 1977 by Mary Alice Nerby (Yup’ik).  photo P1090352_zpssrut1w3d.jpg Shown above is a rabbit-fur parka made in 1994 by an unknown Yup’ik artist.

According to the Museum display:

“This style of parka—with a kuspuk (outer cover), full wolf ruff, and rabbit-fur interior—was worn by Yup’ik women in the Kuskokwim River region of southwest Alaska.”

 photo P1090389_zpslo1gbvml.jpg Shown above is an Eskimo parka made from pieces of seal intestine. This was a waterproof coat.

The Aleut made waterproof outer garments from strips of sea lion intestine and waterproof boots from sea lion flippers. In his book The Native People of Alaska, Steve Langdon reports:

“Colorful cloaks for ceremonial occasions were crafted from the skins of hundreds of tufted puffins taken with snares. Women commonly wore luxurious capes and garments of sea otter fur.”

 photo P1090354_zpscflqtyom.jpg Shown above are child’s mukluks made in the 1970s.  photo P1090360_zpsqxgkrj7w.jpg Shown above are child’s Wolf-head mittens made in the 1970s.  photo P1090382b_zpsar1jz9ut.jpg Shown above are some snow goggles.  photo P1090417_zps3vyiye0v.jpg  photo P1090418_zps9vvqridx.jpg

While made as tourist items, the dress of the dolls shown above is a fairly accurate depiction of Eskimo dress.

Adornment

Personal adornment included tattooing, earrings, and labrets. Among the Aleut, personal adornment included tattoos (usually short straight lines on the hands and face), nose pins, and labrets. Steve Langdon reports:

“Labrets, flat circular discs made of wood or ivory, were inserted into slits in the area between the lower lip and the chin. A common style was to wear one below each corner of the mouth.”

 photo P1090396_zpsorib7a7m.jpg Shown above of Eskimo earrings. These were worn by both men and women.  photo P1090397_zpsargeb6rc.jpg Shown above are some Eskimo labrets, or lip plugs. These were worn by both men and women.

In his book The Native People of Alaska, Steve Langdon reports:

“Labrets, flat circular discs made of wood or ivory, were inserted into slits in the area between the lower lip and the chin. A common style was to wear one below each corner of the mouth.”

Indians 101

On Tuesdays and Thursdays, Indians 101 explores American Indian histories, cultures, arts, and current concerns. More from this series:

Indians 101: Inuit Art (Photo Diary)

Indians 101: The Russians and the Tlingit

Indians 101: Makah Whaling

Indians 101: Arctic Baskets (Photo Diary)

Indians 101: Inupiaq Art (Photo Diary)

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